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the vision of the bike i,m building gettin there

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Post by skulls Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:45 pm

the vision of the bike i,m building gettin there Vision
this is kinda what i want her to look like soon as i can get my carbs figured out . she ran today but then just spit out fire . she definetly runnin rich i did a compression test and both were above 150 psi shes got spark and fresh gas ????????? help if you can . gotta order my cables thats why the old handle bars are still there. soon though.

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Post by Dragon Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:09 am

Fire usually means the timing is too far advanced. Sometimes bad fuel as well. Other times it is set too rich as you thought.
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Post by hayweed Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:09 am

When does it spit fire? I dont see any exhaust on it either. I need a little more info to tell what is going on with her.
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Post by skulls Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:20 pm

It would spit fire right when I push the starter. Then it would spit gas out the exhaust. I cut the exhaust off behind the footpegs.

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Post by hayweed Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:29 pm

Sounds like the floats are set wrong. Or the needle and seat is stuck open. You should not get gas out of the exhaust. Turn off the fuel and hold it wide open and turn it over. That will clear the flood and it should start. Once it's running you should get about 30 sec of run time before the carbs run dry. Before it goes dead, turn the fuel back on and see if it starts to flood again. Do NOT use the choke at any time during this process. Let me know the outcome of this test. Suspect
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Post by joeyputt Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:25 pm

I agree with Hayweed if you are passing fuel through the exhaust, sounds like your floats are stuck or needles are bad, also be very careful as a lot of fuel in the cylinder can wash the rings out and they will scar or gall the cylinders easily from being dry...I have also had machines come through with similar problems caused by the fuel caps vent being clogged or incorrect cap with no vent causing the fuel tank to pressurize and push fuel past the seat, ...and also have had similar problems with the carbs air vent having a blockage, this vent will be above the float in the carbs body above the float and usually vents out the side of the carb and a lot of times will have a small rubber hose hanging off of it down to below the carb and dirt dobbers (the insect) love to pack these full of dirt and clog them...


Last edited by joeyputt on Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by joeyputt Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:51 pm

...Also if you cut the pipes off you are most likely going to have to rejet the carbs due to increased airflow, once you get it running right you can install new plugs and get a reading off of them to see how lean or rich it is running as a starting point...just be careful as if it is running too lean (which cutoff pipes on a lot of imort bikes normally do) it can do damage quickly...
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Post by skulls Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:29 pm

I've had the carbs off twice once I just cleaned them and changed gaskets then the next I bought kits and put them back together. Measuring the floats is ify cuz I had a slightly unreliable friend tell me he did the same bike and measured his floats at 17 mm about the size of a dime so that's what I did other than all that other stuff I,m clueless and will find someone to help. I cut the pipes off a little early they were so nasty but didn't think about tuning it up before I cut em.

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Post by joeyputt Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:46 pm

...a lot of carbs have the brass seats in them (the part the needle slides down into) and if they are not cleaned properly even new needles will leak, take a q-tip and dip it in brasso polish and insert it into the seat and swirl it until the seat is nice and clean and bright...I do this to all of my carb builds. As far as the floats you can normally hold the carb with the float hanging at the bottom and push the float up easily until the needle makes contact with the seat...at this point the float should be level with or just a grunt below level with the bottom of the carb where the bowl face meets the carb as a general setting if you can not measure it...if your needle has the spring pin in the end of it I would set the floats a little below level...
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Post by hayweed Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:48 am

I agree with Joey.
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Post by joeyputt Thu Oct 14, 2010 10:03 am

Did you run the test Hayweed told you about...? I would definately do that and let him know the results, and if you are unsure how to set up the carbs let Hayweed know, he knows what he is talking about and is probably close to you.
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Post by Paladin Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:57 pm

So?? Any updates on this build?
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the vision of the bike i,m building gettin there Empty A bit of a stall on my project but it's about to take off again!

Post by skulls Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:38 pm

Sorry yeah I've been busy wife having a baby soon and money tight , but I'm ordering my new rings and stuff Monday night! Can't wait to here her run again!

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Post by camo Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:44 am

I believe you have a Virago right? Vacuum clide carbs are good carbs, but if you tear them down, there are a few truicks to insure success when you reassemble them. And YES you will absolutely have to rejet for the pipes or lack thereof.
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